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Live Blog: Aging Gracefully: Cosmetic Concerns – Faculty: Kasey Drapeau D’Amato, PA-C, MPAP

In this live blog from the Annual Summer SDPA Conference in Las Vegas, Kasey Drapeau D’Amato, PA-C, MPAP, presented a lecture on “Aging Gracefully: Cosmetic Concerns.” Here are some of the highlights.

Kasey Drapeau D’Amato PA-C, MPAP shared her knowledge of cosmeceuticals and cosmetic concerns, stressing the magnitude of this industry: “The cosmeceutical marketplace is a $9.4 billion dollar global industry that is continuing to grow.” She noted that health care providers play a role in shaping this marketplace as they dispense cosmeceuticals like cleansers, moisturizers, and mask serums.

As “prescribers” as well as personal users of cosmetic products, D’Amato felt it was important to clarify some of the vocabulary in the industry.

Cosmeceuticals: Anti-aging skin care products as well as skin care products that are dispensed by physicians. They have more research behind their brand than what is sold over the counter at the pharmacy.

Cosmetic Drugs: Articles other than food intended to affect the structure or function of the body of man or other animals, cure or mitigate disease.

These penetrate deep under stratum corneum, are manufactured by FDA approved labs, and include products like sunscreen, dandruff shampoo, and antifungals.

Drug Examples
acne treatments
Botox alternative
Dandruff shampoo
OTC anti-fungal cleanser 

Cosmetic Examples
Pore refining
Deep cleaning
Barrier repair

D’Amato also took the time to clarify what some of the label hot-words like “dermatologist tested” really mean.

Hypo-allergenic: “Hypo-allergenic doesn’t mean a whole lot. Contrary to popular belief it doesn’t have to mean that multiple studies have been done.”

Clinically tested: “Clinically tested can mean next to nothing. It could mean that the product has been extensively tested in a lab or it could simply mean that the product has undergone simple test like a 48-hour patch test.”

Dermatologist tested: “Dermatologist tested means that a dermatologist has reviewed and signed off on the study.”

Non-comedogenic: “Non-comedogenic doesn’t mean a whole lot. There is no regulatory body that controls the claim that it will be okay for acne-prone skin.”

Clinically-proven: “Clinically-proven means that two similar clinical studies were done. These have more data behind them.”

Anti-aging: “Anti-aging is usually based on the ingredients in the brand.”

Medical grade: “Medical grade cosmeceuticals are not more powerful than over the counter brands. There is no standard definition for this claim.”

Beyond cosmeceuticals, aesthetic treatments are very popular in the cosmetic dermatology field. D’Amato listed many, but highlighted a few popular ones including micro-needling, vampire facial/PRP, canula, and stem cell facelift. Topical agents that complement aesthetic procedures include chemical peels-AHA, sal acid, or retinoids prior to peel. Skin lightening agents post treatment include retinoids, Manuka honey, peptides, and antioxidants.

Antioxidants are proving to be very helpful in fighting wrinkles, reducing serum and acting as photoprotectors by reducing the harmful effects of free radicals. D’Amato listed vitamin C, coffeeberry, ginko biloba and tea/polyphenols as popular antioxidizing agents. D’Amato predicts that antioxidants’ will be added to sunscreen to act as an added protection to prevent sun damage.


Image: Foundry Park Inn


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